Kenfig: A Topographical Dictionary of Wales, 1849!

Kenfig Castle

KENVIG (CEFN-Y-FIGYN), LOWER, with Pyle, a parish, comprising the greater portion of the borough of Kenvig, in the union of Bridgend and Cowbridge, hundred of Newcastle, county of Glamorgan, South Wales, 11½ miles (S. S. E.) from Neath; containing, exclusively of Pyle, and including Skeir, 297 inhabitants. This place, which is of considerable antiquity, derives its name from its situation on a ridge of ground above a bog. It was anciently of much more importance. As forming part of the great lordship of Glamorgan, it passed by right of conquest, with the other possessions of Iestyn ab Gwrgan, the last Prince of Glamorgan, to Fitz-Hamon, the Norman invader, who included Kenvig among the estates reserved to himself and not apportioned to his companions. Under FitzHamon, his descendants, and their successors, the town increased in importance; and in the reign of Edward II., its immunities were augmented through the influence of this monarch’s favourite, the younger Spencer, who obtained for it, in common with other towns in his lordship of Glamorgan, a new charter from the crown. The castle, town, and lordship of Kenvig, about the middle of the fourteenth century, formed part of the dower of the widow of Hugh le Despencer, on her marriage with Guy de Brien. The charter endowing the place with municipal privileges was confirmed by Thomas le Despencer, lord of Glamorgan, in 1360, and renewed by his son Edward, in 1396, and by his daughter Isabel, in 1423. According to the Annales Marganenses, the town was attacked by the Welsh in 1232.

The decay of the old town, castle, and church are ascribed to an overwhelming inundation of the sea, which took place about the middle of the sixteenth century, and covered with sand an extensive tract in the neighbourhood of the coast. From the desolating effect of this calamitous event the town has never since recovered; it now forms only a small straggling and insignificant village, near the open coast of the Bristol Channel. Kenvig contains about 750 acres of inclosed land, and 800 acres of waste, which latter are principally composed of sandbanks and rabbit warrens, about twelve miles in extent, reaching from Skeir rocks to Briton-Ferry. These sand-banks have been planted with the arundo arenaria, in order to bind them: and, on taking a farm on the adjoining moor, the tenant usually covenants in his lease to give annually the labour of a day or more, in proportion to the extent of his farm, for planting it. The bog referred to in the etymology of the name of this place has, from time immemorial, formed a lake, which is nearly two miles in circumference, and, though situated close to the seashore, and encompassed with sand, never imbibes any muriatic properties. Prior to the desolation caused by the furious encroachment of the sea, the road from Cardiff to Swansea and Carmarthen passed through the town; it was subsequently diverted so as to pass about a mile and a half to the north.

Kenvig still retains its municipal privileges, and is governed by a constable of the castle, a portreeve, an unlimited number of aldermen, a recorder, hayward, two ale-tasters, and an indefinite number of burgesses. The constable of the castle is appointed by the lord of the manor; and the portreeve is chosen by the constable out of three burgesses selected by the aldermen at the court leet held at Michaelmas: the aldermen consist of persons who have served the office of portreeve. The recorder and hayward are named by the portreeve; the sergeantat-mace is appointed by the constable from a list of four burgesses returned to him by the jury at the October court leet, and the ale-tasters are chosen by the same officer. The burgesses are elected by the portreeve and a jury of eight burgesses, who may be sworn in at any time, and may confer the freedom on whomsoever they please, and of whom, according to ancient municipal regulation, the freedom can only be claimed by the sons of burgesses born after their father’s admission. All the burgesses are entitled to common pasture, without stint, upon the extensive wastes belonging to the borough, of which there are about 250 acres that are fit for pasture; and the revenue of the corporation is about £25 per annum. The borough comprises within its jurisdiction the whole of Lower Kenvig, the whole of the hamlet of Higher Kenvig, and part of that of Trissient, the two last being in the adjoining parish of Margam. It also forms a lordship of itself, with a superior manorial jurisdiction over North Cornelly, South Cornelly, and Scarveur.

This borough, which is one of the most ancient in Wales, prior to the passing of the act of 1832, for “Amending the Representation of the People,” was contributory with Cardiff, Aberavon, Cowbridge, Llantrissent, Loughor, Neath, and Swansea, in the return of a member to parliament; the right of election here being in the burgesses at large, resident and non-resident, in number 230. It is now contributory with Swansea, Aberavon, Loughor, and Neath, which have been raised into an independent district, returning one member. The right of election is vested in the old resident burgesses, and in every male person of full age occupying, either as owner, or as tenant under the same landlord, a house or other premises of the annual value of not less than £10. The number of tenements of this value within the limits of the borough is very inconsiderable. The mayor of Swansea is the returning officer. The town-hall, of which the lower part has been converted into a public-house, was built about the beginning of the present century, at an expense of £400. Two fairs were formerly held annually; the first commenced on Whit-Tuesday, the second on the eve of St. James the Apostle, and each continued eight days. The line of the great South Wales railway passes in the vicinity of Kenvig.

The living is a discharged vicarage, with that of Pyle consolidated, rated in the king’s books at £4. 8. 11½., endowed with £800 royal bounty and £800 parliamentary grant, and in the patronage of the Lord Chancellor; present net income, £95; impropriator, C. R. M. Talbot, Esq. The ancient church, dedicated to St. Mary Magdalene, was confirmed and granted, with its appurtenances, about the commencement of the thirteenth century, to the abbey of Margam, by Henry, Bishop of Llandaf, on the petition of Walter, abbot of Tewkesbury. The present parish church is at Pyle. Of the castle, there are no other remains than part of one of the towers, rising to the height of about twelve feet above the sand, beneath which the remainder is buried; and some vestiges of the moat that surrounded it. About 300 yards to the south of it were the ancient church and cemetery, where human bones are frequently exposed to view by the drifting of the sands. The Roman Via Julia Maritima is supposed to have taken its course by this place, between which and the village of Margam is an inscribed stone, about five feet in height and one in diameter, on which are the words Punpeius Carantorius, with some curious characters that have exercised the ingenuity of antiquaries. On the south-east side of the parish is a large extra-parochial farm, called Skeir, containing 21 inhabitants, the boundary line between which and Kenvig having been covered with sand by the storm above noticed, a commission was held for ascertaining it, pursuant to an act obtained in 1554, relating to the destruction caused by the seasand in Glamorganshire.

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A Topographical Dictionary of Wales

Samuel Lewis

1849

The Maid of Cefn Ydfa

Ann Thomas was born in 1704 to William and Catherine Thomas of Cefn Ydfa. She had a younger brother named William who sadly along with her father died in 1706. The Cefn Ydfa Estate and lands were then left to Ann, the heiress. Williams will states that Catherine's brother Rev. Rice Price is to be his children’s testamentary guardian. This relationship, perhaps in some degree, will explain the causes which led up to the climax of this sad story.

Not much is known about Ann's childhood other than she learn't to write unlike her mother Catherine. 

During the 1720’s Ann Thomas was approaching adulthood when Wil Hopcyn, a local tiler and plasterer came to Cefn Ydfa to carry out some repairs. Wil was charming, friendly and a true gentleman.  It didn't take long for Ann to fall for him. Wil, as it was customary with tradesmen employed by farmhouses in the neighbourhood, would take his meals in the kitchen, and it has been said that Miss Thomas was in the habit of coming to the kitchen, just after dinner was over and order the servants to do some work outside, so as to give her the opportunity of conversing with Wil alone. 

However her mother Catherine and her Uncle Rice Price had other plans for Ann’s future. Catherine wanted her daughter to marry somebody of equal social standing. Her choice was Anthony Maddocks (jr), a solicitor of Cwm-yr-Isca Farm. At that time Cwm-yr-Isca Farm was just over the mountain, not far from Cefn Ydfa.

When Ann's 'relationship' with Wil came to light his work on the property was dismissed. 

They began to meet in the woods but again when Catherine was made aware of this it was put to a stop. Ann was still in contact with Wil without her mother’s knowledge. Catherine forbade Ann to see Wil, and she was then confined to her room.  Ann and Wil wrote letters to each other. A housemaid helped them do this, it was arranged that these letters would be put in the hollow of an old tree near Corn-kwch, a few fields below the house. Ann’s mother was tipped off about what was going on by a servant at Cefn Ydfa, she then removed the quills and ink from Ann’s room. Tradition states that Ann may have even written notes to Wil in her own blood.

Immense pressure was put on Ann to reject Wil and accept Anthony Maddocks (jr) Prayers threats and entreaties must have been used because she eventually consented to the marriage. Although she consented to the marriage it is recorded that Ann burst into floods of tears when she saw Wil at Bridgend on Market Day, shopping for wedding garments. It was clear that she was not happy with the arrangement. 

Ann Thomas and Anthony Maddocks (jr) married on 4th of May 1725, it seemed that their marriage wasn't filled with much happiness at all. Although Ann was now a married woman she still pined for Wil.

It is said while on trade in Bristol Wil dreamt that Anthony Maddocks (jr) had died, meaning Ann was free to marry him. Wil quickly returned to Llangynwyd to find that Ann herself was on her death bed, she was suffering from a fever. Throughout her last days Ann called for Wil and because of this Anthony Maddocks (jr) wanted nothing more to do with the maid. Eventually Ann’s mother Catherine sent someone into Llangynwyd to bring Wil to her. It is said that Ann died in Wil’s arms whilst Anthony Maddocks (jr) was out hunting.

Tradition states that Wil Hopcyn stayed unmarried until his death in 1741.

Anthony Maddocks re-married Elizabeth Thomas of Laleston within 7 and a half months of Ann’s death. Elizabeth then became the heiress of the Cefn Ydfa estate.

The Wreckers of Dunraven

Dunraven Castle, or manor house as it really was, is recorded as having been a place of habitation from earliest times. It is said that Caractacus, the old Welsh chieftain lived there and also Iestyn ap Cwrgan. It then became Norman, the home of the Botteler (Butler) family of the knights who severed directly under de Londres, the Lord of Ogmore. The name derives from the Welsh Dindryvan, meaning a triangular shaped fortress. The house was in existence until recent times when a dispute arose between the owner, who had wished to develop it, and the local authority who refused permission. The owner then demolished the premises and little of it remains today.

There is a famous legend about Dunraven Castle concerning the Vaughans, a family who came to the fore as the Tudor ‘new nobility’. How much of the story is true and how much is legend we have no means of telling, but it is a historical fact that Walter Vaughan, the head of the family, had three sons who were drowned in the nearby waters of the Bristol Channel. Here is the legend.

Walter Vaughan, the Lord of Dunraven, once saw a shipwrecked on the dangerous nearby reefs. Swimming out with a rope he managed to save many lives. He then worked out a scheme of sea-rescue and took his plans to the government of the day. Unfortunately for many, the powers-that-be refused to consider the plans. The rebuff changed Vaughan’s nature and he became an embittered man, spending his money in reckless extravagance. He married and had several sons but his new-found character  made for poor family life, his wife dying of a broken heart and his favourite son deserting him to begin life in a foreign land.

Later another wreck occurred which Vaughan, as Lord of the Manor, claimed as his. The unfortunate ship yielded much wealth and this set Vaughan thinking, for his spending had depleted the family coffers. If one ship had saved him from bankruptcy, why not a few more? The people living along the coast between Dunraven and Nash Point (especially those in Wick) had long had the reputation for deliberately wrecking the sailing ships of the day, their favourite ploy being to put lanterns on sheep and oxen, thus confusing the unfortunate sailors. The leader of the wreckers in the area was a man with an iron hook in place of an arm, known as ‘Mat of the Iron Hand’. Vaughan fell in with this reprobate, overlooking the fact that many years ago, as the local magistrate, he had ordered the seizure of Mat for a misdemeanour and that, in the ensuing arrest, there had been a struggle in which the wrecker had lost his hand in a knife thrust. Perhaps Vaughan thought that Mat had forgotten, or would not harbour a grudge when profitable business was in the offing: it was a mistake that cost him dear.

Having entered the wrecking business, Vaughan’s fortune began to prosper but it was not long before Nemesis began to play a hand. First two of his sons were drowned. They had set forth in a small boat to do some fishing but a sudden storm arose, driving the craft on to the feared rocks. Vaughan had to watch helplessly from the cliffs as the two boys met their death: and, as though that was not enough, in the resulting turmoil (with all the servants rushing from the castle to watch) his youngest son fell into a vessel of whey and was also drowned.
These events were regarded as just retribution for an evil man. Vaughan must have thought so to, for he began to try and make amends for his bad deeds; but his final punishment was now approaching in the shape of Mat the Iron Hand.

One day, during a terrible storm, Vaughan saw a ship trying to seek shelter near the coast. It might have made it but, as it got dark, Mat put out his false lights and the ship was lured to its doom. Amid the shrieking of the wind and the buffeting if the waves the crew tried to swim towards the beach but only one man made it alive. It was the rule amongst wreckers that no sailor, if he got ashore, should be allowed to live in case ge became a future witness in court: so Mat, being the ring leader, advanced on the exhausted swimmer and killed him. No sooner had he done so that he recognised his victim and his sadistic nature felt a surge of exultation.  He reached down and cut off the sailor’s hand.

Back on the cliff-top Vaughan was watching. He saw Mat approaching and as the ruffian came up to him he saw the bloody hand of the murdered man. Mat held out the hand and on one of the fingers Vaughan saw a ring. Slowly disbelief turned to despair and terror as the nobleman realised the full enormity of what had happened.

The hand and the ring were those of his favourite son who had left home such a long time ago.

The Legends of Porthcawl and the Glamorgan Coast
Author:  Alun Morgan 

Illustration by Margaret Wooding
Images: Dunraven Castle

BRUGEENDE-JUXTA-COYTIF: Pechakucha Night @ Art About Us!

“Pechakucha Format: 20 selected images with a snappy 20 seconds commentary per image.”

Towards the end of last year (October) I was given a chance, along with other local creatives to give a PechaKucha presentation at the Art About Us space situated in Nolton Street. 

What is (was) Art About Us?

“ART ABOUT US BRIDGEND is a participatory arts residency run by visual artist Rabab Ghazoul. Running from June to December 2012, the project invites members of the Bridgend community to get involved in a range of creative, cultural and conversational activities. Asking questions about what regeneration could be, should be, is and isn’t, the project looks under the lid of what familiar words such as ‘renewal’, and ‘regeneration’ might and could mean.”

 The aim of the presentation was to give an informal snippet it to ones work and interests.

Art About Us’ infamous PechaKucha nights have shown us the interests of  Freya Sykes of Ella Rileys, Local Photographers Dan Wood and Kate MacLeod, Luke Biddle of Define Poetic and the award winning poet Rhian Edwards! (+ many more)

I gave my presentation about… you’ve guessed! The History of Bridgend! Here I will take you through each photograph and give a more thorough description of times gone by.

This photograph shows Prime Minister David Lloyd George at Bridgend Railway Station during 1914. An exact date id not given but we can assume that he this was taken after his speech at Cardiff calling for a Welsh Army to be formed separately from the collective forces.  A few weeks later the War Office agreed that the NEC (National Executive Committee) should take responsibility for the organisation of the Welsh Army.

As a result of the formation of this new Welsh Army, during the years of World War One a Tank called Egbert was paraded through the streets of Bridgend.  This was used to raise awareness of the needs of recruitment and boost morale. The government often used events like military demonstrations, public meetings, open air concerts and appeals at the pictures houses to gain support for the war effort.

This photograph is thought to have been in conjunction with the visit from the tank, in the centre William McGaul is making a speech.

On Armistice Day, 1921 the Cenotaph situated at Dunraven Place was unveiled.  Britannia stand at 7ft 6inchs and is seen as a symbol of patriotic nature. To her right she is grasping a sword and left she is grasping a banner: the symbols of sacrifice and victory.

Bridgend Town Hall was erected in 1845 on land donated by the Earl of Dunraven. The hall was handed over to the committee of trustees on the May the first of that year! The first committee was held at the hall on the 2^nd of June 1845. The Earl of Dunraven instructed that the land was to be leased to the town for 999 years and any building that was erected there was not to be used for political use. For a time the Police Station was situated at the Town Hall and it is recorded that it was lit by gas for the first time during 1847! The hall was later used for functions and events until it was demolished during the early 1970’s.

1792 sees the first reference to the Wyndham Arms Hotel, now the Wetherspoons.  This illustration was made during 1795. There is reason to suggest that there was previously some sort of court house or brewery on this site during the 1500’s.

The Old Stone Bridge was erected during c.1425 with the means of connecting the two lands of Newcastle and Oldcastle. It was partly reconstructed during 1775 due to extensive flood damage. 1444 sees the earliest recorded reference of Bridgend, written as “Bryggen Eynde” it refers to Nolton Street and Elder Street.

 The above photograph shows the Welcome To Town Inn during 1915!

As we venture further up Nolton Street we come to St. Gabriel’s School for  Wayward Girls situated at 71 Nolton Street! Pictured with Mrs Watkins, and her daughters Renee and Crystal c.1900’s the school specialised in sewing and dressmaking. The girls were paid a 6d per week.

 1116 see ths earliest recorded occupancy of Ogmore Castle. The castle is occupied by the builder William de Londres, one of Robert FitzHamons Twelve Knights of Glamorgan. The record confirms that the castle had been built by this date, in a motte and bailey type including earthworks and ditches. The castle was later rebuilt in stone by his son Maurice de Londres the founder of Ewenny Priory. William de Londres was forced to abandon the lands of Ogmore when the Welsh appeared in force. Arnold de Boteler is noted to have protected the castle against the attack of the Welsh and for that he was rewarded the castle and lands of Dunraven.

Folklore speaks of the Ceffyl Dwr being present at the crossing at the River Ewenny.

The Ceffyl Dwr is known throughout Wales as a mysterious shape shifting creature, although what form it takes depends on the area of Wales that you are in!

For example:

In North Wales the creature takes the form of a fiery eyed, dark presence.

·         In South Wales he is represented as a "winged steed", taking his place by Rivers, Water Pools, and Waterfalls . Although that he is thought to be a positive creature he has been known as a "pest" to lone travellers.

“It was a ghost horse that always frequented fords and crossing places of rivers and, as might be expected the River Ogmore had one. At first the creature seemed innocuous enough, quietly cropping the grass at the water’s edge. This tempted a traveller to mount the horse in order to get to the other side without wetting his feet. Immediately he has mounted the traveller found himself airborne, far above the earth. At an altitude of a couple of hundred feet the animal vanished leaving its rider to pluge to his death. The remains were gathered up and the horse repeated the trick with another unsuspecting person. In Ireland the horse was called Poocah, a word similar in meaning to the Welsh Bwca or Bwci Bo.” – Alun Morgan

The Castle of Dunraven was built on the site of an early Iron Age Fort.  It is said to have been a Royal-Roman stronghold during the time of Bran, the son of Lear.  There is record of the Saxons burning the residence of Dunraven during 1050, it is also noted that Rhys ap Tewder destroyed the residence some thirty years later (1080) when it was the home of Iestyn ap Cwrgan, the last native Prince of Glamorgan. 

During the time of the Normans ‘Donrevyn’ fell under the Lordship of William de Londres, one of Robert FitzHamon’s Twelve Knights of Glamorgan. In about 1128 the manor and land of Dunraven was awarded to Arnold de Boteler  (the Butler of the Ogmore residence of the de Londres family) after he bravely defended Ogmore Castle against the attack of the Welsh.

The Boteler (Butler) family held Dunraven throughout the 12th , 13th, 14th and 15th centuries until the male line of the Boteler’s died out.  During this time it (15th century) is reported that Owain Glyndwr destroyed the Castle.  Ann, the daughter of Jane and John Boteler  married the soon to be notorious Walter Vaughan thus bringing the estate into the Vaughan family.  During the 1540’s Dunraven is described as a “Manor Place” owned by Walter Vaughan.  In 1642 Sir Richard Vaughan sold the estate to Humphry Wyndham the husband of Jane Carne of Ewenny whose descendants were the Earls  of Dunraven.

In 1803 Mr Thomas Wyndham made alterations to the Manor House as did his grandson Edwin (the son of Countess  Caroline of Dunraven) in 1858! After these works the Manor House attracted the named Dunraven Castle due to its many castellations.

During World War One and World War Two the ‘Castle’ was used as Glamorgan Red Cross County Hospital. (Still in the hands of the Earls of Dunraven)

After the Second World War the Manor House was used as a WTA Guest House.  The property and grounds were rented and run by the W.T.A from the 6th Earl of Dunraven Richard Southwell Windham Robert Wyndham-Quin.  The property was managed by Mr & Mrs Anderson.

During 1100 a stronghold at Coity was completed. The Castle was built on the site of an earlier Welsh Court. It was of a timber and earth work constructed and later fortified to stone. The notorious de Turberville family held the castle at Coity for many years. The de Tuberville family held the Lordship of Coity from c.1092 until c.1380. The Lordship is thought to have been founded by Sir Payne de Turberville, who was one of Robert FitzHamon’s Twelve Knights of Glamorgan along with William de Londres who held the Lordship of Ogmore.  He was given this Lordship in return for his services during the Norman Conquest.

The Turberville Lordship was ended by the death of Richard Turberville, Sir Payne de Turberville's 6th great grandson. He left no male heiress, leaving his sisters as four co-heiresses. His eldest sister Katherine married into the Berkerolles family which led the Lordship to be taken up by their family.

The descendants of Sir Payne de Turberville came to own Sker House during the late 1500’s. The family played a very important part in the affairs of the county as they had held the Lordship of Coity many years before.

1106 sees the earliest recorded reference to a castle at Newcastle It was built by the Lord of Glamorgan himself, Robert FitzHamon. It was later given to the de Turberville family in 1217. The castle and lands of Newcastle became part of the the Margam Estate when it was bought by Sir Rice Mansel of Margam during 1536!

St Johns House or as its more commonly known “St Johns Hospice” is a mainly 15th century building situated on Newcastle Hill. St John’s is thought to be one of the oldest buildings in the area with its history spanning over 600 years. The earliest date known to be associated with the building is c.1425.

The house is a Grade II listed building - "A particularly important building of exceptional interest and of outstanding importance."

It is said to have connections with the 'Knights Hospitallers' these were a group of men that were attached to a hospital in Jerusalem, founded by “Blessed Gerard” during the early part of the 11th century. The patron of these 'Knights Hospitallers' was St John of Jerusalem.

Sometime ago St Johns was used as two houses. (20 & 22 Newcastle Hill). It is known that the Lewis family resided at number 22 Newcastle Hill from 1861 until 1919 when Abraham Lewis eventually sold the property to the Hospital of St John of Jerusalem for the fee of £500.

During 1936 an old bell was found at the house by St John’s Ambulance workers. The bell was found laying in an old pipe which is thought to have led to an old well nearby.

First thought to be a cow bell, the bell was examined by officers from the National Museum of Wales, they concluded that it was in fact a bell of Celtic origin.

The bell is created from one piece of metal - brass. Includes brass rivets and a tongue made of Iron.

Measurements

Bell:

6 and ¼ inches in height

4 inches across the base/ narrowing to 3 inches near the handle

Handle:

2 inches in length½ an inch in width¼ of an inch in  height

1717 sees the erection of the Unitarian Chapel at the foot of Newcastle Hill which was built adjacent to a house which has previously been used for the meetings. This Independent Chapel was the first Nonconformist church in Bridgend. It was closely linked to the Price, Morgan, Williams and Coffin families through its connections to Rev. Rice Price – who was the father of Dr Richard Price of Tynton, Llangeinor. Dr. Richard Price was the cousin of Ann Maddocks (Nee Thomas), The Maid of Cefn Ydfa (which I will go into more detail above!) This connection could also explain why many people believe that Catherine Price (The Maids mother) is buried somewhere in or around the chapel area. 

The building was later reconstructed in 1795. It is now known as the Unitarian Chapel or The Meeting House.

Its original grave yard formerly extended across to the Angel Inn (P.S Pub) but was foreshortened when Park Street was constructed.

Pictured above is Ann Maddocks, The Maid of Cefn Ydfa, this is her story: 

The Maid of Cefn Ydfa tells the story on Ann Maddocks (Nee Thomas) and Wil Hopcyn (or Hopkin).

During the 1720’s Ann Thomas was approaching adulthood when Wil Hopcyn, a local tiler and plasterer came to Cefn Ydfa to carry out some repairs. Wil was charming, friendly and a true gentleman. It didn’t take long for Ann to fall for him.

However her mother Catherine had other plans for Ann’s future. Catherine wanted her daughter to marry somebody of equal social standing. Her choice was Anthony Maddocks (jr), a solicitor of Cwm-yr-Isca Farm. At that time Cwm-yr-Isca Farm was just over the mountain, not far from Cefn Ydfa. Catherine forbade Ann to see Wil, and she was then confined to her room.

Ann was still in contact with Wil without her mother’s knowledge. Ann and Wil wrote letters to each other. A housemaid helped them do this, Ann would give the housemaid the letter and she would place it in a hollow tree for Wil to collect. Ann’s mother was tipped off about what was going on by a servant at Cefn Ydfa, she then removed the quills and ink from Ann’s room. It is suggested that Ann may have even wrote notes to Wil in her own blood.

Ann Thomas and Anthony Maddocks (jr) married on 4th of May 1725, it seemed that their marriage wasn’t filled with much happiness at all. Although Ann was now a married woman she still pined for Wil.

It is said while on trade in Bristol Wil dreamt that Anthony Maddocks (jr) had died, meaning Ann was free to marry him. Wil quickly returned to Llangynwyd to find that Ann herself was on her death bed, she was suffering from a fever. Throughout her last days Ann called for Wil and because of this Anthony Maddocks (jr) wanted nothing more to do with the maid. Eventually Ann’s mother Catherine sent someone into Llangynwyd to bring Wil to her. It is said that Ann died in Wil’s arms whist Anthony Maddocks (jr) was out hunting.

Tradition states that Wil Hopcyn stayed unmarried until his death in 1741.

Anthony Maddocks re-married Elizabeth Thomas of Laleston within 7 and a half months of Ann’s death. Elizabeth then became the heiress of the Cefn Ydfa estate.

A Visit to Ewenny Priory

Ewenny Priory, c.1775!

To visit Ewenny Priory, we can take the Southerndown bus as far as the village and, on the way there, we should get a good view of the Priory across the Ewenny Valley with the woods and hills behind it and the river and marshes in front.

On getting off the bus and walking up the lane towards the Priory, we should first come to what appears to be the battlemented wall of a castle and this impression would be confirmed by the main gateway with its great tower, the grooves for the portcullis and the openings in the floor of the guardroom above from which boiling pitch or lead could be poured down on any would-be attackers. Ewenny was both priory and castle in one-one of the best, if not the best, example of a fortified monastery in the British Isles. If it were possible to look down on the monastery from above, we should find that the defences formed a rough parallelogram with the North (i.e., the lane side) and the South sides as the longer ones, and that the Church probably formed part of the original defence system on the north side. The circuit of the walls was c.600 yards and the area enclosed nearly 5 acres.

The defences were strongest on the North side which, in addition, was protected by the River Ewenny and, beyond that, the marshes (in fact, streams surround the defence on three sides and there was possibly, in medieval times, a moat on the fourth side). It is thus fairly easy to conjecture that the builders feared most the attacks if the Welsh to the North – for, behind the monastery, was the Vale (Y Fro) and this was in friendly (i.e. Norman) hands. When the Normans penetrated into Glamorgan  at the end of the 11^th Century, they soon over-ran the fertile lowlands of the Vale and kept control of it by building strong points at all strategic points. Ewenny was one of these and fitted into the defence system of the Ogmore Valley- the other three strong points being Ogmore Castle near the confluence of the Ewenny and Ogmore Rivers, the seat of lordship of Ogmore given to William de Londres; Newcastle guarding an important ford across the river and, at first in the hands of the Lord of Glamorgan himself, Robert Fitzhamon; and, lastly, Coity Castle whose first Norman lord was Pagan (or Payn) de Turberville. If we were to climb to the top of the tower by the main Ewenny gateway, we should have a wonderful view of all the country guarded by these strong points and of the hills (Y Blaenau) form which the Welsh would swoop down to burn and plunder these lands. A beacon would be lit on top of this tower to give warning of any such attack and would be clearly seen by the watchers in Ogmore, Newcastle and Coity. Mr. H. J. Randall has suggested that possibly Ewenny acted as a supply base to these three castles.

If we were to continue further along the lane from the main gateway, we should come to the churchyard and the North entrance to the Church itself.  Because the ruined North transept was pulled down nearly 150 years ago, we cannot see from the churchyard the cruciform shape of the Church – this is only possible from the S.E., i.e., from the private grounds of the mansion. Like all monastery churches, however, Ewenny was originally built in the shape of a cross, the longer – western – limb being the nave, the shorter – eastern – limb forming the presbytery and the cross-piece containing the North and South transepts with the choir between them in the central point. The square tower was above the choir.

If we enter the Church through the Tudor North Porch, we pass into the western end of the nave and, if we were to stand facing the altar, we should notice immediately the contrast between the Norman style of the greater part of the Church and the Tudor style of the North aisle on our left with its wide Tudor windows. We cannot help noticing the massive Norman pillars with their solid square bases and their plain capitals and the almost unadorned round Norman arches. We wonder, too, why the windows on our right (i.e. on the South side of the Church) are so small and so high up and then we remember that, when this Church was built in the early 12^th century, the roof of the North Walk of the cloister reached to just below the windows on the outside. Originally, there would have been similar small windows on the North side on our left too, partly because craftsmen had largely lost the art of glassmaking since the departure of the Romans at the beginning of the 5^th century and partly because large windows were not desired on the side open to hostile attack by the Welsh. The large Tudor style windows and the North aisle itself were built after the accession of the Tudors when there was peace and friendship between English and Welsh. The solid West Front behind us was built just over 100 years ago but the remains of the original Norman West Front and doorway can be seen by going outside. In turning round to look at the West Front, we see the very old font.

If we were to go up the middle aisle towards the altar, we should see that behind the altar is a solid stone wall (8 ½ feet high) with a carved wooden beam on top of it and we realise at once that there were two churches under the same roof in Ewenny. So far we have been only in the parish church – the part used for centuries by people of the surrounding countryside– but, if we were to turn to our left by the Altar, we should go through the modern vestry built on part of the site of the original North transept into the monastic church. (In doing this, we should see some of the original tiles from the floor of the North transept. Some of these bear arms of the Abbey of St. Peter’s at Gloucester – “the cross – keys of St. Peter and the sword of St. Paul”).  This part of the Church i.e., the transepts with the choir between them and the presbytery would have been used only by the monks and we can see, while standing in the choir, what a strong stone wall there was separating them from the ordinary people of the parish on the other side.

If we were to enter the presbytery, we should see that it is vaulted and that the floor has modern replicas of the original tiles. It has a pre-Reformation altar, i.e., one with the five crosses symbolising the five wounds of Christ and, in the North wall, i.e., on our left as we face the Altar, is a hagioscope, i.e., an opening in the wall to let anyone in the side chapels see the High Altar in the presbytery. Thus the Sacristan (the monk who looked after the monastic building) would be able to see, without going into the presbytery, that the candles were burning on the Altar and the priest would know when to ring the Sanctus bell during Mass.

How was it that these black – robed Benedictine monks had been sent to Ewenny by the Abbey of St. Peter’s of Gloucester? Well, if we move out of the Presbytery and along the choir to the South transept, we come to a tombstone on which is s Norman French inscription which can be translated as follows: -

“Here lies Morice de Londres, the Founder,

God reward him for his service. Amen.”

Maurice de Londres did actually give Ewenny to the Abbey of Gloucester in 1141 but the Church must have been built some time before this and so it is probable that the Church was built, on the site of a previous Welsh church, on the orders of the first Norman Lord of Ogmore, William de Londres, and presented, with other lands, by his son, Maurice, to the Benedictine Abbey of St. Peter’s of Gloucester in 1141, the number of monks being fixed at not less than 13.

We know little of the history of the Priory at this time as its records have been lost but Giraldus Cambrensis (Gerald the Welshman) tells us that he passed by “the little cell of Ewenith” in 1188 on his way from Llandaff to Margam as he accompanied Archbishop Baldwin on his tour through Wales to preach the Third Crusade. We also know that Edward 1^st spent the night of 13^th December, 1284, here on his way from Margam to Cardiff. Otherwise it is left to our imagination to people this Church with black robed, tonsured monks – perhaps to stand in the shadows and watch them some stumbling into the midnight service through the little door in the S.W. corner of the South transept, each monk, cold and sleepy, catching hold of the monk in front of him and then taking his rightful place for the service. We watch one monk take a lantern and flash it into the faces of the other monks to make sure all are awake and we can see one monk hastily stifling a yawn – for yawning is not allowed in the Church. When the service is over, they file away through the same little door, up the cold stone stairs and through the little doorway in the turret which leads to their dormitory and so each one goes to his bed in one of the little cubicles which opened off the central gangway down the dormitory and so to sleep until the next service at 5 a.m. (There were eight of these services during the 24 hours as the main duty of the monks was the worship of God.)

There are other tombstones in the South transept besides that of Maurice “the founder” – there is that of his son, William de Londres and also that of Hawise de Londres, through whom the lordship of Ogmore passed from the de Londres family to the Duchy of Lancaster and so eventually to the Crown. There is another, too, of more doubtful origin but it is possibly the tombstone of Gilbert de Turberville, Lord of Coity and one the early benefactors of the Priory, who desired to be buried in Ewenny.

Thus the Priory continued until, when Henry VIII made himself Head of the Church in England and Wales by the Act of Supremacy, 1534, there were only two monks left besides the Prior and these three, on 11^th September, 1534, signed a declaration accepting Henry as their rightful Head instead of the Pope. Three years later when the Abbey of Gloucester surrendered to the King, Ewenny was leased to Sir Edward Carne of Nash for 99 years on condition that he provided a priest for the parish church, kept the Church and other buildings in repair and paid £20 10s. 0d. a year to the former Prior of the cell. We do not know what happened to this Prior and his two monks but, in 1546, when Sir Edward Carne bought the Priory and all its lands for £727 6s. 4d., there was no mention of them and no conditions were laid down as to what Carne should do with the Church or the lands. The parishioners were, however, allowed to go on using their part of the Church and they bought the one bell in the tower above the choir for their own use. This was replaced by a new bell in the 19^th century.

If we were to look or a memorial to this Sir Edward Carne in the South transept, we should fail to find it for his tombstone is far away – in Rome! He was, in spite of the favour shown him by Henry VIII and Edward VI and his purchase of the Ewenny lands, a Catholic at heart and Queen Mary Tudor appointed him as English Ambassador to the Holy See. When Elizabeth came to the throne in 1558 and established a moderately Protestant Church in England, Sir Edward Carne seems to have been afraid to come back to Wales in case he would have to give up his lands if he remained a Catholic as he wished, and so he begged the Pope to refuse to let him leave Rome. This the Pope did and Elizabeth, in order to free him as she thought, took up the matter with King Phillip II of Spain. When Phillip used his influence with the Pope to try to secure Carne’s release, the true facts of the situation had to be explained to him and he then gave evasive replies to Elizabeth. So Carne remained in Rome until his death in 1561, but his descendants kept his lands at Ewenny and lived in the Tudor mansion which was built where the monastic buildings had stood and that is why we to-day cannot go out into the cloisters through the door in the west wall of the South transept and actually see the remains of the Chapter House, the Refectory, the Kitchen, the Warming Room, etc. All these must have been pulled down and their stone used to build the new house, but this is not the mansion which we can see to – day. The old Tudor mansion fell into disrepair at the end of the 18^th century and was largely rebuilt at the beginning of the 19^th century. The monastic church too (not the parish church) had fallen into disrepair, mostly through disuse, and we have a picture of it at this time showing pigs in it and chickens being fed. There is also evidence that it was used as a cowshed!

Some memorial tablets to the descendants of Sir Edward Carne may be seen in the South transept, notably an altar tomb of an Edward Carne who died in 1650 and of his great-grandson, John Carne, a young boy of 15 who died in 1700 and was the last of the male Carnes so that, on the death of his sisters, Ewenny passed to the Turbervilles in which family it has remained until the 20^th century.

P.L. Bennett, Writing for The Festival of Britain Guide of Bridgend, 1951!

A Visit to Ewenny Pottery

Spare an hour for a visit to the potteries at Ewenny, for you will find there a perfect example of a small, self-contained family craft so uncommon in these days of vast combines; and if you can spare another hour to meditate upon the implications of craft as old civilisation itself, and upon the products of the potter’s wheel which are so intimately woven into the fabric of peasant work and thought, you will gain rich reward.

Welsh potteries in medieval times were closely associated with monasteries, and the nearness of these potteries to Ewenny Priory suggests that this craft may have first been practiced in this district by the Ewenny monks themselves, who passed the craft on to the people who were lucky enough to have plenty of clay at hand.

The present potteries were opened about the year 1600 A.D. by a family named Jenkins, whose descendants still own and work in the potteries. They found plenty of good clay in the fields upon which the pottery was built. There is a great deal of this clay in the area, for the Cefn Brickworks found enough clay for many years’ work, and so do the Tondu Brickworks still. The people of Ewenny used their clay for the pots, pans and jugs of daily use, and it is thought that many farmers tried their hands at pottery because ancient kilns have been recently revealed on some old farmhouses in the district. To-day, pottery making is practised in the nearby Heolgam Secondary School with clay dug in the school field and good example of glazed ware may be seen.

In the 17^th, 18^thand 19^th centuries Ewenny stood on the old coachroad running from the bottom of Crack Hill through Corntown to Laleston, over what is now called the “Old Dipping Bridge”. The potteries were on the branch of this road which led to Bridgend and so were well-known to travellers and easily reached. This favourable position helped to make the pottery of Ewenny a household word in the area.

Behind the potteries today you can see the clay pits – like earthen quarries – from which clay is dug. The legend arose that the pits refilled by night what was dug out by day, but a glance around at the many old-grass covered pits will soon dispel this legend. The clay when dug is cleaned of earth and stones, left for many days in the weather, and then crushed and rolled between heavy rollers in the pit. About the year 1800 these rollers were turned by a horse treading in a circle, and pulling a beam which had one end attached to a central axle which turned as the horse walked around. An example of these horse rollers from Ewenny is in the National Museum at Cardiff. Today the rollers are powered by a petrol engine. When the clay has been so rolled and worked that all the small stones are crushed and it becomes soft, smooth easily-worked mass, it is then ready for use. The very finest and smoothest clay is kept for the better class ware.

Earliest pottery was moulded by hand without a wheel, but a potter’s wheel was excavated in Egypt and was proved to have been used in about 4000 B.C! In Britain potters’ wheels appeared in the Early Iron Age. The earliest are known as “Whirlers” and were spun by hand. Later “Treadle Wheels” came into being and have been popular from ancient times. One may still be seen at Ewenny, but the wheels in general use there are now power driven. The treadle wheel is turned by an up-and-down movement of the potter’s foot while his hands shape the clay. A lump of soft clay is put on the middle of the wheel- which is like a gramophone turntable- and the potter squeezes and presses the spinning lump of wet clay until a pot, cup, bowl or jug springs up magically under the caressing touch of his hands. Handles are attached afterwards and ornamentation put on. A piece of wire is deftly pulled under the pot which is thus loosened from the wheel. This shaping is called “Throwing” and the pot is said to be “Green” – that is – not hard.

The “green” pot is then put in a warm room to dry and harden and if porous pots like flowerpots are needed they are then “fired”. But vessels which have to hold liquids must be waterproof so the inside of the vessel is coated with a glaze which when “fired” in a kiln becomes hard, shiny waterproof lining. Should the outside need glazing, the pot is dipped into the glaze.

Ewenny clay makes a red and rather coarse pot, and to provide a better and smoother surface it is coated with thin layer of fine white clay. This is imported from Cornwall, mixed to the con-sistency of cream, and the vessel is “slipped” into it and when withdrawn has a white coating. It is again dried. Sometimes the vessel is decorated by market through the “slip”, thus exposing the red clay underneath. The “slip” is coloured by stains put into it. The resulting colours are usually lime green, blue or buff which are the traditional Ewenny colours. Manganese, lead and copper are used to colour the “slip”. Iolo Morgannwg in 1808 stated that the manganese used came from Sully, “Slipware” is peculiar to Ewenny.

The final coat is glaze and the vessel is dipped in it before “firing”.

In the yards may be seen queer, beehive-shaped buildings. These are the “Kilns” in which the ware is “fired” or baked. These kilns are similar in pattern to the Roman up-draught kilns unearthed in Castle Lyons in Denbighshire. There is a lower chamber called the combustion chamber, where the fire of coke or coal and wood is lit, and the upper chamber, or oven, where the pots are placed. The floor between the two chambers is of brick and pierced with many holes to allow the hot gases and smoke to rise. There are vents in the top through which the smoke and fumes escape into the open air. Thus an upward draught is caused. After the pots are put in, the doors are sealed with fire bricks and clay. Glazed and highly coloured wares would be damaged by the fumes and gases from the fire, and to prevent this the glazed pots are put into large clay boxes with holes in the sides and so protected from the fumes. These boxes are called “Saggars”. This word may be a corruption of “safeguards”.

After many hours of “firing” the doors are broken in and the “fired” pots are now hard and glossy and ready for sale.

Ewenny ware has supplied the needs of the people of Mid-Glamorgan for centuries. In the early days of pottery making wash basins, milk jugs, pans for separating cream from milk, and pitchers for fetching and storing milk and water were made and sold.

As the times changed so did the pottery. Flowerpots, flower vases, bread and dough pans, flour bins and even coronation souvenir mugs have made their appearances. In 1893 a vase “thrown” by David Jenkins and decorated by Horace Elliot was presented to Prince George and Princess Mary later King George V and Queen Mary, to commemorate their marriage.  It is now in the National Museum at Cardiff and is of while “slipware” lavishly decorated and inscribed.

The best Ewenny ware was produced in the early years of the 19^th century, and the most famous examples are the wassail bowls called “Ffiolau Dolennog” which means “many handled bowls”. There are three in the National Museum dated 182, 1834 and 1836. Bowls of this type were made to order only, and were sold at a guinea each. They were closely associated with folklore of the changing seasons and were shaped as a large pot with many handles surmounted by a nigh cover or lid. It was glazed buff slipware. Surmounting the lid was the figure of a woman re-presenting Spring, and around the figures were animals, birds and fruits of the countryside – rabbits, hares, deer, pigeons, wheat, oats, barley, apples and leaves all directed upwards to the central figure of Spring.

One of these bowls now in the Museum was carried around the Parish of Ewenny after the Christmas season, and seemed to signify the rebirth of nature in springtime.

Many such bowls were made to order for Llangynwyd farmers, and formed the central feature of “Harvest Home” celebrations. It was passed around from hand to hand to drink from as a rejoicing that the fruits of the earth were safely gathered in before the winter storms began.

The same bowl was filled with hot rum punch on New Year’s Eve in preparation for the visits of the “Mari Lwyd” when it called upon the household. The “Mari Lwyd” was a horse’s skull upon a pole carried by a man under a sheet. The skull was covered with bells, ribbons, rosettes, linen and tinsel. The jaw was worked by the man under the sheet.

It was accompanied by a dozen men and after they had galloped up to the farm door, a com-petition in rhyme would take place between the household and the men of the “Mari Lwyd” company. After much fun the door would be opened and the men admitted. Then the “ffiol dolennog” would be handed to the leader of the visitors and passed round. The punch was drunk with great fun, and the visit ended with a blessing upon the house from the “Mari Lwyd” leader.

Next year another farmer would travel the road to Ewenny to order a bowl for a similar occasion, when he would present it to the “Mari Lwyd”.

These ceremonies must have had some relation with the ancient rites of offering gifts to Ceres, the Goddess of Corn, to ensure plenty in the coming year, and have remained in the folk memory for many, many centuries; while the “Mari Lwyd” may be the relics of old, half-forgotten mystery play depicting the flight of Mary and Joseph and the Child to Egypt.

Now that your visit is done and your train of meditation started you can resurrect many more such folk memories, by pursuing in thought the elemental use of the products of the Potter’s wheel of Ewenny.

A.C. Chess, Writing for The Festival of Britain Guide of Bridgend, 1951!